Sand, sun and sea. As we are endlessly alliteratively reminded, Egypt has these in ample supply. But what about the fourth “S”, snow? This may be a bit harder to believe. But, if you’re willing to make the trek over to Sinai, you might just be lucky enough to throw a snowball in the morning and take a dip in the Red Sea in the afternoon.
The grande dame of hikes in Sinai is, of course, the fabled Mount Sinai, one of the highest, and certainly the most known, of all the tall peaks on Sinai’s south central plateau. This storied peak, made famous millennia ago by Moses and the commandments, is undoubtedly a grand adventure. The standard trek is to begin the very well managed ascent (you either climb stairs, or a winding camel track) in the early hours of the morning to reach the summit at dawn. Climbing through the night may be a bit of a letdown, and sleeping in a couple of extra hours won’t detract much from the experience, and will allow you to avoid the dawn rush hour. Even in the warmer months, be prepared for a chill in the early mornings. On a recent ascent, it snowed the whole way up, and the stairs were covered in ice.
For those more willing to get off the beaten path, a myriad of adventures await you. On a recent expedition, we left the glorious tall peaks of the south central plateau behind, and concentrated on the lower, but not less majestic peaks, a bit further north.
We began our trek not far inland from the St. Catherine’s turnoff on the Sharm-Dahab road, and entered the wilderness at Wadi el Babur. This is not exactly the rough wilderness; our trek was accompanied by camels, and at our camp each night we were met by a jeep providing tents and a cooked meal. We even managed a cool beer on the first night.
Traveling through the valley, the canyon walls soon narrowed, and we climbed Mount Gunna. The summit provided a panoramic spot for lunch, and in the afternoon we descended into the scenic Wadi Zalaga, where our campsite was nearly washed away by a midnight torrent.
The next morning we headed up Wadi Zalaga, and camped again at the entry into the Red Canyon. This canyon, a spectacular amalgam between black igneous rocks, and wind and water shaped limestone, laid down at the bottom of an ancient sea bed, is a treat. The canyon narrows to impossibly thin passages, and the afternoon sun plays delightfully with the varied hews of color inscribed in the rocks.
The next morning, waking up with frost on our noses and icicles on our packs, we rapidly shed our accumulated layers while summiting Nagb Arada, before heading back to civilization along Wadi Truefya. Along the way, we passed by countless reminders of the epochs of travelers who had passed along these corridors before us; ancient trade routes connecting the West with the spices of the East: early Christian monastics and pilgrimage routes; the early Hajj route connecting Cairo with Mecca. Their inscriptions tell their stories, and provide helpful directions.
That night, dining in Sharm el-Sheikh before our evening flight back to Cairo, I felt as an ancient camel rider must have felt emerging out of the Western Desert into the bright lights of Cairo after completing the dar al arbayeen, the 40 day trek from Sudan. We found ourselves mesmerized by the lights, the easy convenience, and the jarring cacophony of the place. Now, it is true that downtown Sharm can be jarring at even the best of times, but it also speaks volumes to the utter peace and tranquility that one attains deep in the quiet center of Sinai.
Trekking Sinai need not exclusively be for the bold and the brave. Our campsites were ready by the time we arrived each afternoon, and we dined on glorious, though simple, Bedouin fare. Amazingly accessible, Sinai’s wilderness may be just the thing to rejuvenate a tired Cairo soul.
Treks are easy to arrange via Sharm, Dahab or Nuweiba-based travel agents. For some ideas on routes, try the fabled Sheik Mousa (sheikmousa.com). For accommodation in the mountains, try the Al Karm ecolodge, or the guest house at St. Catherine’s Monastery. In addition, many of Sinai’s inland attractions are an easy drive from Dahab, Nuweiba or Sharm.
